Durability of the car
The durability of the car in many respects depends on style of driving therefore we will discuss how we go and as it is not necessary to go, if, of course, there is a desire to save up both the car, and money.
Going on the car for work or to a business trip, try to count up, how many time you should use coupling, a transmission and brakes. After all while the car as it should be, seldom to whom comes to mind to pay attention to how these or those governing bodies are used. Certainly, to change, say, till time the erased brake shoes simply. And here it is necessary to tinker with replacement of brake drums or disks. And absolutely not easy to cope with worn-out details of coupling or a transmission.
Anything, of course, in the car is not eternal. But if you, let us assume, unfairly often use coupling, maneuvering in a dense city stream, and do not remove a foot from a pedal, even standing on a traffic light, the put 80 thousand km of run the disk of coupling will not serve, certainly. Its early replacement of situation will not rescue: on turn premature failure of plates of "basket" of coupling and the bearing of switching off of coupling which from thoughtless operation of transmission simply "dries" and breaks "basket"...
The same it is possible to tell and about a transmission. Most "patient" of the domestic – a "Zhigulevsk" transmission – is capable «отъездить» both 150, and 200 thousand km without repair; transmissions of Audi cars are slightly more capable to serve. But dashing management of a box, being accompanied lever breakthroughs from one situation in another, long before term puts out of action synchronizers. And it though not the most difficult, but repair. Therefore patient drivers, switching transfers, use a technique «into three accounts», that is as though about itself tell «time, two, three» when translating lever from one situation in another.
However, to the "athletes" preferring quickly «to take straight away», it is necessary to pay off not only a failing steering and ahead of schedule worn-out rubber. At such style of driving huge loading is the share of drive details – hinges of equal angular speeds, bearings, a coupling disk, not to mention the engine. No doubt, the modern cars equipped with powerful motors, can go any time, as sports. But they are not intended for "sports" loadings, if, of course, speech does not go about the "single" car.
What to do, if nevertheless there is a need to "tear" the motor, getting out on the become limp road or slipping in sand or on ice? Skilled drivers know how to arrive in similar cases: they create the conditions increasing its passableness for the car. It is enough to reduce pressure in tires of driving wheels to one atmosphere considerably to improve coupling of wheels with a surface of a dirt road. And on the front-wheel car surpassing in passableness the car of classical configuration, difficult sites of dirt roads overcome, moving a backing.
Preparation of the car for winter
All councils given below and recommendations are unessential for carrying out independently. If there is no desire to potter – is service stations and the professional master. But you should represent, what exactly is necessary for making with the car, accurately to explain it to the master, and sometimes and to track that everything was made properly.
On snow and ice in sandals do not go – the car for the winter too should be changed. About winter rubber it is written much therefore we will remind shortly only main issues.
Tires are intended for winter operation with marking: «M+S» («+ Snow» means Mud грязь+снег), «W» («Winter», or winter). These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or a tuchka.
It is better to choose tires a little already, than what you use in the summer, – it is natural, within admissible for your car of a range of the sizes. The protector should press through snow and mud porridge to a firm covering, narrow tires cope with such task better.
In the winter it is undesirable to apply all-weather tires – that are marked by "AS" indexes («All Seasons» – all seasons) or «AW» («Any Weather» – any weather).
"Winter" possibilities at them weak; all-weather in the true sense of the word it is possible to consider them only if it is a question of low-snow Europe, instead of about Russia.
Tires on ice and snow hold Shipovannye better, than neshipovanny. But on pure asphalt when braking on thorns the probability of blocking of wheels, drift and a brake way increases: steel thorns not bad slide on asphalt. Danger consists also that drivers blindly trust in thorns and, braking on asphalt, expect from them the same death grip, as well as on ice. By the way, neshipovanny winter tires of new generations on a slippery surface behave not worse, than shipovanny.
Some drivers put in the winter shipovanny tires only on driving wheels. And on conducted leave... the summer. Do not do so, it is dangerous. On the slippery road the probability of demolition of neshipovanny pair of wheels is very great even in rather harmless situations – factors of coupling and resistance to lateral withdrawal too strongly differ.
The main problem in the winter – start-up of the cold engine. More often it arises with reference to carburetor motors, but in a hard frost with it can face and the owner of the car the engine equipped with system of injection. The reasons are known – the thickened oil, falling of capacity of the accumulator and bad evaporation of gasoline. Oils and accumulators we will consider separately, for now some words about experience of the countries with a frigid climate where prestarting electroheaters, such "boilers" in system of cooling of the engine are widely applied. Approached on the house or office, thrust a fork in the socket, turned on the timer... By the necessary time the engine will be heated-up, and some designs of heaters provide also salon warming up.
Electric devices of heating are presented some years and in the Russian market. The Finnish heaters which can be completed with timers use the greatest popularity.
The main lack of electroheating consists that at the house or office it is necessary to have a special guard with the socket. The exit – an independent heater and works at liquid fuel which too is built in system of cooling of the engine by a principle of a water-heating copper. As fuel for it gasoline or diesel fuel depending on at what the engine of your car works serves.
The advantage of systems of heating consists also that at their application the engine resource increases. Each start-up of the cold motor at temperature of-20 °C is equivalent to run of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views the motor will reach working temperature quicker, and its wear will be less if after start-up not to be at a stop, and to begin movement as soon as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load of the engine.
Oil replacement usually прозводят in a binding to car run, instead of to a season. Vast majority of modern engine oils to some extent the all-weather. It is considered, it is necessary what to fill in that is offered the producer in the car maintenance instruction. But winters happen different – both warm slushy, and frosty. And it is absolutely not clear, whether the producer assumed that his car will be maintained in the conditions of the Russian winter and that oil is required to it "more cold".
If you decided to recede from instruction requirements, at a choice of oil it is possible to use simple reception of determination of its temperature suitability – for secure. Let's call this reception by "rule 35".
Marking of engine oil should include designation of a class of its viscosity on SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. It means that this oil on viscosity at "minus" temperature meets the requirements shown to winter oils of a class 15W, and at "plusovy" – to summer oils of a class 40.
Remember number «35». If from it to subtract a "winter" index of a class of viscosity (in our example it is «15»), the size called by limiting temperature of a prokachivayemost, i.e. temperature at which oil still keeps fluidity will turn out: 35–15=20. Means, oil 15W-40 can use at temperature to–20 °C.
Respectively, than less "winter" index of a class of viscosity, subjects oil is colder": 10W – to–25 °C; 5W – to–30 °C.
It also is "rule 35" – simple and useful.
Struck a frost, and the accumulator which still yesterday was vigorously twisting a starter, flatly refuses to do it. Anything surprising: when you charged it the last time?
If the accumulator "is rather young" (till 3–4 years), on the threshold of winter it needs to be washed up outside, to clear plugs and completely to charge (if the car was constantly maintained in the city, the battery charge, for certain, is far from nominal). If the accumulator old and to nominal capacity is not charged, change without thoughts, differently in the winter it will bring you – capacity and so strongly falls with temperature fall, and here also the increased power consumption: heater, heating of seats, light, "yard keepers", heater of back glass...
By estimates of experts, average duration of «high-grade life» storage battery makes about 12 months, gradual "withering" further begins. And the peak of sales of starterny batteries, according to sellers, is necessary just for the autumn.
Times when the car owner was rushed off the feet in search of the new accumulator, passed long ago: from a variety of trademarks and models on regiments of shops рябит in eyes. What to choose – a personal record of everyone. Let's note only that in the market now it is possible to allocate two price groups: batteries in cost over $60 (usually to $100), for example Bosch, Steco, American, Fiamm, and accumulators at the price of below $60 (Mutlu, Inci, Centra, SAEM etc.).
Higher prices of batteries of the first group are defined by more perfect technology of their production. These accumulators, as a rule, belong to category of the unattended. Special types of electrolits and tight execution of such batteries increase their resource and provide the high starterny currents guaranteeing a provorachivaniye of a cranked shaft of the engine even at hard frosts. Leading producers now without fail use technology of packing of plates therefore it is possible to avoid short circuit of the battery in case of their destruction.
Cheaper accumulators demand periodic service – checks of density of electrolit and measurement of its level.
Often upon purchase of the new battery try to choose capacity more if only the battery got on the place taken away for it. But capacity not main thing. Where the starterny current which is provided by the battery is more important. After all even at the high-capacity accumulator this indicator (because of big own resistance) can appear lower, than at the accumulator of smaller capacity. Besides, the high-capacity battery needs higher current of the charging, which generator of your car will not provide, and the battery in use will be discharged more and more that is pitiable will affect term of its service.
Upon purchase of the battery which is differing from regular, pay attention to an arrangement of its plugs: accumulators come across to "return polarity» which plugs of a wire of your car can and not reach.
Before approach of winter do not forget about high-voltage wires. After driving few years on our "salty" roads it is desirable to replace them, it is best of all on wires with a silicone cover which are less sensitive to temperature drops. Besides, on them hoarfrost which often happens the reason of lack of a spark is not formed. Corrosion or a bad inhaling of plugs of the storage battery can be the banal reason of malfunctions in system of ignition.
Separately – about candles. Usually they are changed by each 15–20 thousand km, i.e. once in one and a half years (some supermodern candles maintain 100 thousand km of run and more). To save on candles (to calcinate, clean and regulate gaps) it is not necessary. Replace candles at least once a year it it is inexpensive. New candles establish on the threshold of winter.
Power supply system
Quite often the power supply system is at the bottom of unsatisfactory operation of the engine during winter time. And all because of the water condensate which has accumulated in a fuel tank. If in a tank there is a drain stopper, water can be merged simply; if is not present, to "neutralize", having applied so-called vytesnitel of moisture. Practically all leading producers of auto chemical goods (STP, Loctite, Wynns, Aspokem) offer similar preparations: filled in in a fuel tank, they gradually clear a power supply system.
To the superfluous
will not deliver also the new filter of thin purification of fuel, to be convinced of purity of nozzles.
Winter not the best season for the car, especially at movement on the streets which have been plentifully salted. During this period the body as much as possible is exposed to corrosion therefore its anticorrosive processing is very desirable. However, according to the staff of some authorized service stations, for a number of new foreign cars, especially with the zinced body, it is quite enough factory processing.
Anticorrosive processing demands strict observance of technology, and though practically all producers of protective materials let out them in packing for household application, after all it is more preferable to carry out processing in the specialized service center. Costs in advance
to find out, on what technology it is carried out. In any case before sheeting drawing on the bottom and arches the car should be cleared of dirt, is washed up and dried carefully up.
Winter – hard test and for a paint and varnish covering of a body. Sharp temperature drops, snow mixed up with salt, an ice crust – all this leads to emergence of microcracks on paint. The surface of a body can be protected the special structures suitable for use at low temperature, for example Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Processing by these preparations carry out approximately once a month after an obligatory wash of the car and its drying.
Question of where to hold the car in the winter, actually usually it is not necessary: who garage has, keep it in garage, at whom is not present, – on the street. Strangely enough, from the point of view of
(from corrosion, instead of from theft) between trips and for the night it is better to leave safeties of a body the car on the street – at a cold body process of corrosion goes more slowly. In cold garage of heat allocated by the car suffices on that it a few to warm, and the melted snow with salt some time actively does the dirty work. Well and in warm garage even if you carefully washed the car from salt from below, it will stand all night long the wet...
Visibility – not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore hardly it is necessary to remind that screen wipers, having blown and heating of glasses should be serviceable. The brushes leaving on glass opaque strips, safely throw out. And buying new, try to choose the firm – Bosch, ITE, Champion, etc. Inhabitants of northern regions can try warmed brushes which are connected to an onboard network; they appeared on sale not so long ago.
Now it is direct about glasses. Their survey is better for entrusting the expert, but also personal control will not prevent. Even the small chip on a windscreen in the first frost after an autumn rain will turn into a high-grade crack. Existing technologies of repair allow to eliminate similar defect without glass removal. It is simpler and cheaper, than replacement flew down.
One more "winter" problem – a zapotevaniye of glasses. At serviceable system of ventilation arises seldom, but... Application of liquids-antizapotevateley, for example Anti-Fog or Never Fog which it is enough to put on glass of times a week helps.
All expendables, including antifreeze and hydraulic liquids in drives of brakes and couplings, have the service life. If arise though the slightest doubts, it is not necessary to select a portion of the antifreeze which has grown brown or become green from an old age from a radiator and to put it on test in a deep freeze. Replace antifreeze. Also do not save, buying doubtful preparations without labels and certificates, – will more expensively manage.
It is necessary to approach and to a choice of nonfreezing liquids for washers of glasses not less carefully. It in rural areas at–20 °C under wheels dry and pure snow. And in Moscow even in a hard frost – dirty fat swill which brushes willingly smear on glass, turning into an opaque whitish film. Therefore reserved liquids in a tank of a washer of a windscreen – an indispensable condition of safe driving. But buying the liquid, which temperature of freezing of-20 °C, be not under a delusion and do not dilute it, even if on the street of-10 °C. Practice shows that under way liquids with temperature of freezing of-40 °C stiffen on a windscreen even in a desyatigradusny frost if glass not to warm (to a question of serviceability of system of ventilation and heating).
Nonfreezing liquids for a windscreen washer, as a rule, contain additives which effectively delete dirt and clear glass. Some of them, however, unduly foam, but also they it is much better, than cheap vodka which some prefer to fill in in a tank.
Operation of tires
Tires on any car wear out unequally and non-uniformly. It is caused by its design (for example, conducting and operated are loaded more), a technical condition of a suspension bracket (сайлентблоков, springs, shock-absorbers) and other reasons.
That tires (including «запаску») in use wore out at the same time and evenly, manufacturers recommend to interchange the position of wheels at everyone THAT, that is through 10–15 thousand km of run. However each tire, getting on a new place, at first it is earned extra, and it not always passes without consequences. Let's tell, at it external paths better remained. Having risen to the place of that where the same paths are more worn-out, it will quickly wipe the as they at first will be loaded more strongly than the worn-out internal. Similar extra earnings of tires "eats" that the most part of a resource (hodimost), than the technical condition of the car, first of all is worse than a suspension bracket. Besides, after repair of a running gear or adjustment of disorder convergence of wheels nature of wear of the tire remaining on an old place will show, whether something changed here.
Considering all this, skilled motorists interchange the position of tires through 25–30 thousand km of run, i.e. one-two time before failure. In this case to replace (and to buy) it is possible not at once all set of tires that many arranges.
Recommended pressure in tires
Recommended pressure in tires is specified on a sticker located on inside of the hatch of a bulk mouth of a fuel tank. Pressure in tires 155/80 R13, 175/70 R13 and 185/60 R14 should make 2,1 kg/s.
It is not got (councils)
Your hardware should be faultless – after all time which you have, these are the same money which, we hope, at you too is. Do not lose neither that, nor another. If goodness knows where gone tie or burned by the iron брючина can become the reason of failure of a business meeting what then to speak about the car which does not want to be got for an hour before the appointed negotiations.
Early in the morning, just shaved and full of great plans, you jump in the car, «a key on start» and... What for the devil?! Once more. Still... Nervous manipulations with a key in the lock of ignition and pedals of success do not bring. Day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood – "are up the spout".
Calm down. It is not necessary to rush in an English suit under a cowl and, smearing a tie dirt, to try to make the diagnosis. In five minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take other car, and treatment of the fallen ill friend leave till the evening. And better charge it to "doctors" with good reputation, especially if you not the expert. So will be cheaper. Well and if your friend to you well a sign and you consider yourselves as the healer – well, try if not laziness to be soiled or there is no other way out.
It is necessary to start definition of the diagnosis quietly: study mentally symptoms. The first – whether "twists" a starter? If yes, that is how vigorous? You already know the answer – remember that occurred in the first attempts to get the car. If do not remember, try once again.
If the starter does not twist at all and at all does not click the traction relay at ignition inclusion, it or is faulty (it is possible to close a cowl and to follow the council given above:« Take other car …»), or the electric power-supply circuit of a starter (the accumulator was disconnected or sat down) is faulty. Only on rare models the power-supply circuit of a starter can be protected by a safety lock. It is simple for finding, especially if in advance the nobility where it is. If the accumulator is guilty, except a starter also all electric equipment, as a rule, does not work. The elementary and most mild case – flied, one of plugs, but the accumulator as it should be became soiled or oxidized. Tighten fastenings of plugs on it and on a starter (if is). If it will become clear that the battery completely sat down (forgot to switch off for the night marker lights), it is possible to leave nevertheless, but with assistance. Here, as they say, options are possible. It is possible to try to be got from a push, a hill or a tow. However be not under a delusion: the car with an automatic transmission or electronic injection of fuel (if there an electric gasoline pump) will not manage to be got these ways. It is necessary to "get a light" from the neighbor. However, at some cars it can lead to "computer" damages – the central block of an electronic control system of the engine (read the instruction to the car). If the starter twists, but inertly (business occurs in the summer, winter – a subject of separate conversation), most likely, the storage battery is almost absolutely discharged. It will be visible on weak light of headlights or work of a sound signal. The above-stated options of assistance in this case come into effect.
If the starter twists vigorously, and the engine does not react to attempts it to get, safely exclude from further reflections all connected with the accumulator. Check system of ignition or supply of fuel, will not be mistaken. At definition of the diagnosis and treatment of "illness" of each of systems the system approach is necessary. It is best of all to begin with ignition – in this system of a malfunction meet more often, especially in crude weather.
So, it is necessary «to look for a spark». Your car is equipped with electronic contactless system of ignition which can be integrated into an electronic control system of the engine. In any case the system of ignition consists of three parts. Part one – low-voltage (the special sensor plus a box with the electronic stuffing, forming a spark). A part second – the raising transformer called in the world by the coil of ignition. A part third – high-voltage (the mechanical or electronic distributor of ignition and high-voltage wires of system of ignition on which the high-tension current is brought to candles). And, naturally, candles. Check of all this economy should be carried out step by step and it is better to begin «with the end».
Stage first. High-voltage part of system. Check, whether there is a spark on the central wire – is what connects the ignition coil to the distributor. The tip of a wire needs to be taken out from a cover of the distributor and to approach to any detail having good contact to "mass" (body) of the car (it is painted or not, has no value), and to fix so that between a tip and the chosen detail there was a gap of 5-7 mm. To fix a wire it is necessary especially reliably: if will fall to "weight", electronics "will instantly die". For the same reason it is impossible to "strike" a wire on the case. A hand to hold it too we do not advise, at all the, – will fine strike with a current.
Stage second. Turn the engine a starter. Thus look that occurs on a wire tip. Two options are possible. More favorable – the spark is. Powerful, accompanied by loud click. It considerably narrows a field of further searches.
First of all it is necessary to uncover the distributor. Under it it can appear damp and untidily. On such "conductor" the spark willingly slips anywhere, only not there where it is necessary.
To wipe, clean and dry up. At the same time harmlessly to clean and distributor contacts, for example, a small skin. Examine so-called "begunok". If on it or on a cover of the distributor will find a dark trace of electric breakdown, the detail should be changed. In the most biassed way check the wires going from the distributor to candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and pure. If with them, in your opinion, everything is all right, it is possible to put a cover into place, to restore connections and to try to get the engine. If malfunction was concealed under a cover, the engine will be got or at worst at least will start to sneeze. A symptom too favorable – you on a right way. However, it is necessary to turn out, clean and dry candles: in attempts to get the engine you filled in them with gasoline. If the engine does not sneeze at all, candles all the same should be turned out, cleaned and checked. It is simpler, if there is a spare set.
If you already reached a stage of a reversing of candles, it is possible to check quite effectively (and it is effective) ignition system as a whole. Having connected to the turned-out candles high-voltage wires of system of ignition, collect candles in a bunch as carrots, and wind it by a carving part of candles with the soft bared wire. Be convinced that the wire contacts to each candle, but does not concern their central electrodes. The free end of a wire connect to "weight". Having arranged a bunch of candles in convenient for supervision from salon a place, twist the engine a starter. Between electrodes of candles in turn (according to
operating procedure of cylinders) should slip cheerful sparks. If it so, all system of ignition is serviceable. The engine sound thus will be very unusual, but be not frightened, after all it turns with the turned-out candles. Long do not twist. Worse if at the second stage of check other option takes place: sparks between the central wire and "weight" are not present. Means, matter is not in high-voltage chains. Further searches will be more difficult, estimate a stock of the time and desire. If that and another available, start the third stage.
Stage third. Check, whether tension on the ignition coil moves. It is easy for making a tester and if it is not present, it is possible to use a podkapotny lamp. However, pair of wires is required to connect it to the coil. To connect a bulb it is necessary between "weight" and an entrance of primary winding.
At the third stage two options, as usual, are also possible: tension on the coil either moves, or is not present. If moves, the coil – breakdown or short circuit is guilty that, however, happens extremely seldom. The coil should be changed. More often there is a bad contact in connection of wires with the coil. Or the same wet dirt on which the spark flows away it is not known where. Sometimes the coil is polished to shine, but under it invisible, very narrow strip of dirt – the quite good conductor remains.
If at the third stage you were convinced that tension on the coil does not move – electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in a low-voltage part of system of ignition is guilty. You will not consult with electronics (the switchboard and the sensor in the distributor case is more rare) – their diagnostics needs the special equipment. It is possible unless to pull the sensor socket on the distributor case – suddenly will help. On contacts of the socket only 12 In, it is possible therefore to pull tension fearlessly. If tension appeared (at a derganye of contacts a bulb blinks), restore everything unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe, still will make progress in the affairs. If the engine is not started, but already at least sneezes – turn out candles and... (see above).
It can turn out and so that all system of ignition checked, it as it should be, and the engine though you burst, all the same is not got. Means, problems with other of mentioned before systems – a power supply system, that is supply of fuel in the engine.
If you have a car with injection (injector system of supply of fuel), do not touch it (to system). You can come to conclusion only that it is faulty: the spark is, fuel approaches – means, it, darling. Treatment only in a hospital. In house conditions and at handicraftsmen to repair it it is useless and even it is harmful.
Rare, but we left the most unpleasant diagnosis at last. If the starter works normally, and you already spent a heap of time and were convinced that ignition and a food in a full order, but the car nevertheless is not got – it is necessary to examine a belt of a drive of a camshaft. However, solve: this check can be carried out and in the beginning, especially if the engine passed more than 60 thousand km. Complexity that it is necessary to remove or at least partially to unbend the top part of a closing belt plastic or metal casing. Probably, at a belt teeths (at belts, as well as at people, teeth is lost from an old age) are cut off. In this case the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that it is necessary to replace a toothless belt. Procedure of replacement of a belt is simple, but is quite troublesome. It is carried out in a hospital. It is good, if everything is limited to replacement of one belt, instead of pognuty valves or all head of the block of cylinders – such too happens.
Power supply system contamination (about the "atherosclerosis" reasons)
Let's try to explain, why the blood system of the car sometimes is surprised "atherosclerosis". Gasoline – car blood. And blood should be pure and run on pure vessels. And that in vessels over an admissible measure "cholesterol", as a rule, collects ourselves are guilty. Whether often you use the canister for a gasoline dolivka in a tank? If yes, that chances to litter a gasoline pipe line and filters raise, especially if your funnel without a setochka. In the canister the garbage, a rust, sand, and if the canister inside colored, and paint particles usually accumulates. It is clear that the less intermediate container is used on a gasoline way from a column in a tank, the better. As it is strange, even on the most mean gas station of dirt in tanks in the specific relation it is less, than in the "home" canister. Scourge of our gas stations not so much dirt, how many water. But here we are powerless. However, with own hand not to add water in the domestic diluted gasoline, try to hold always a tank the full. In an incomplete tank condensate, especially in inter-season period when there are sharp temperature drops accumulates.
It is necessary to tell a couple of words and about the accumulator. As on the majority of modern cars it unattended, is not present sense to provide here maintenance instructions. Let's give some additional councils how longer to keep the accumulator the viable. Be not fond of a napichkivaniye of your car of additional consumers of energy. That fact that in power balance of the car is provided the certain stock, allowing to be connected to two-three "parasites", does not mean that it is possible to hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car – have sense of proportion. Besides, if you connect unforeseen consumers independently, the probability of damage of isolation is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified intervention in car electroconducting has an effect sooner or later troubles.
If your accumulator "is near death", try not to suppress the engine during uncountable stops in the city. Anything so does not exhaust the battery, as frequent using a starter.
And, at last (it concerns not only the accumulator, but also all electric equipment of the car), remember: all plugs, contacts, tips of wires should be dry and pure, well adjacent to "destinations". Dirty, greasy isolation makes the way sooner or later, and the podgoraniye and oxidation of any contact surface can serve unique (and sufficient) as a cause of failure of system of ignition or a fire.
On it it is possible to stop. Meticulous motorists, undoubtedly, paid attention to some superficiality of our councils. We admit, we intentionally do not wish to go deep into a jungle not to provoke you to self-treatment – it to good does not bring. The understanding of the nature of pains in the bottom of a stomach on the right does not mean that you should delete at yourselves an appendix. But to describe to the doctor appendicitis symptoms you should precisely. Very much helps treatment.